Wednesday 9 January 2008

Initial reflections

I can't quite believe it's over, I'm sat here drinking bottomless cups of 'Jitterbug' coffee in the galley of the SP station. It's oppressively warm, and I'm sat in a chair, is this really over, have I really done it, can I now really bore everyone to death with my South Pole stories?

I catch a glimpse of myself in the reflection of my sunglasses, the long beard, frost bitten nose and ears, all crusted with blood, I stare at my fingers, blistered and cracked from the cold, ice burns from holding metal with bare hands - it all comes flooding back. 1140km (712 miles), I look a mess but feel surprisingly energetic, I'm sure it won't hit me until I'm back in Chile where we should have a days R&R before the long set of flights home - it could still be 3 weeks before I'm back infront of a log fire!

One of the station rep's, congratulated us on our achievement and told us that more people have been into outerspace than have made the journey we have just done - I find it hard to believe but appreciate the compliment.

Outside it is the coldest it has been the whole expedition, -39c, and I know this because I'm looking at a 42in plasma screen on the wall of the galley, its logged into the southpole.USAP.gov weather giving me temperatures, windspeed and pressure data. Nice not to hold my thermometer out of the tent door to get the information.

I feel a bit of a fraud sat here, if I want green tea, decaf latte or orange juice I just have to walk up to a machine and get it, I don't have to light my stove! I should be in my cramped and smelly tent, enduring my final day at the Pole.....no bloody way...."Shaun get me another coffee on your way back from the loo, and see if you can pinch me another cookie...there's a capital chap!''

This doesn't feel like the 'coldest, most remote place on earth.' There are 234 people stationed here in the summer, 6 flights a day on a ski equipped C130 Hercules, mainly delivering fuel to run this ice city. The station floats on the ice, 3000m above sea level, beneath us is 2000m of ice and then a mountain range a 1000m high - the ice is moving all the time. The actual SP marker is moved each year, hence why they make a new marker plate each year and date it. The old marker posts, denoting previous SP positions are dotted around close by.

I have spent the day, speaking to friends, family and the press - an abuse of the senses after such silence but have loved hearing familiar voices. I have been so used to the quite sound of my own thoughts, that I need to escape the din of the galley and find that luxurious toilet seat!

See you soon.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Well done Jon, totally amazing.

Do they have a vending machine for clean underwear as well?

Lloyd and family

Caroline De BrĂșn said...

Congratulations, Jon. I don't have a television, but our family in Ireland have been reporting back and it is all very exciting! Enjoy your success. You really deserve it. C & P

Anonymous said...

Jon, If I know like I think I do you are supervising the work and activities there at the south pole station at this very moment. Great work mate !!!!!

Anonymous said...

I can't believe that after all this time you are still stuck there with weather so bad you can't get away. You say it's colder than the 58 days, they could at least let you sleep in the station rather than in your tents! How mean they are.